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  • Writer's pictureRobyn Dwyer

Little Travel Stories: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires, 13 June 2015 - morning facebook post

Seven years ago today I woke up to my first morning in Buenos Aires. Love at first sight. And so today, I return to celebrate. Nothing, but nothing compares to coming home to Buenos Aires. I've said it before, but it's a love that I have for this city. I feel a change in my whole being, in my body, my spirit. An energy returns, the corners of my mouth lift just ever so slightly and a warmth spreads into my chest. I feel my face soften and my eyes crinkle. The same peaceful warmth, the soft inner joy as I do when I have my nieces and my nephews somewhere in my presence. Happiness, I believe it is called. And I smile and even get a little watery eyed.

Here I feel at home. To arrive at Retiro at 6.30am precisely, as the bus schedule promised, I walk through the enormous bus terminal and my heart has already changed its rhythm. This bus terminal is nothing less than the gateway to the world's greatest adventure park. Here you can take a bus to anywhere in the world it seems! Any city or pueblo all over Argentina, any country in South America you can set off to from here. And people are doing it! It is so exciting to see the rows upon rows of platforms for the buses, the rapid exchange of people getting on and off, the joyous hellos and the warm and heartfelt goodbyes - long meaningful hugs and shiny eyes. Friends, families and lovers who wait for the bus to leave the terminal, talking on their phones to the loved ones standing below, waving, sign languaging and laughing. I love this place.

But I am not leaving, and I step outside the bus terminal into Buenos Aires. "Hello!!" I have to stop myself from calling this out aloud. "I love you!! I'm here!! Do you know how much I love you?!" Ah, thank God, I say inwardly. What a joy to know one's home.

A bus to San Telmo arrives immediately, but I do not take it. I want to wait a while, to stand here and feel the city, the smell, admire the lit clock tower, listen to the calling of the street vendors selling warm flat bread fresh from the pan. Watching the morning workers run for their bus. Presently the No. 28 arrives. My sube card doesn't work but the bus driver waves me on to the bus and I happily take the front seat. Along the Paseo Colon, always the same route whether I've come from the Aeroparque or Retiro and by this time the smile on my face is complete and outwardly showing. This city which I love so much, the grand buildings, what architecture, what effort!!! So many people of past and present have taken so much pride and care to make her what she is. I'm so grateful. Would that I could contribute something one day, I think to myself, to give something back, if wanted. For now, I'll just be grateful and pay tribute to Portenos past and present. It's a wonderful city, a fantastic country.

And what to do so early on a Saturday morning? Only the street newspaper vendors are up, and a few off to work. Ritual calls. Make a mate, check the city cultural agenda for the weekend, step out on to the balcony and watch the street slowly wake. Presently the sounds of the window shutters being rolled up for the cafes, then the increase frequency in the buses and shouts of good morning to those busying themselves with all their variety of tasks in the streets below, sweeping, delivering, setting up cafe tables and chairs. Unpack for the weekend and settle in. Soon, I'll go down for a coffee, two medialunas and a small juice... and off we go....


Here's to whatever led me here seven years ago, to the friends I've made, the eternal love born in my heart for a city, and to future unknown adventures. I think of all the people I know who also love and have loved this city. I'm not the only one who feels it and I know they know this joy. In the street below, as I write, someone is whistling a tune as they walk on by. They feel it too.

As, when I'm watching the sunrise over the water in Sydney, feeling in just the right place at the right time, strangely I think of all the people I love all over the world - and sending love xxx


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